Vehicles and campers
Flooring for campervans, caravans, motorhomes, work vans and trailers: how to choose it, fit it, keep the weight down and look after it.
The most common complaint on campervan forums always sounds the same: "the floor came unstuck over the summer". The covering usually gets the blame. Almost always it is the adhesive: it was chosen out of habit from home renovation.
We do not sell adhesive, so there are no brand recommendations below. Only the selection principles and what to look for on the technical data sheet.
How a vehicle differs from a room
- Temperature. A closed van in the summer sun heats up to 60–70 °C inside. On a winter night the same floor cools to zero.
- Vibration. The body is constantly moving and twists slightly on rough ground.
- Base. Not an absorbent screed, but plywood or metal.
- Volume. A few cubic metres of air. Solvent fumes build up quickly.
The adhesive for PVC flooring used in homes and offices is designed for an absorbent mineral base and room temperature. In a vehicle it meets conditions it was never intended for.
What to look for on the data sheet
- Heat resistance of the cured bond. You need a margin above 70 °C. If there is no figure, the adhesive is not suitable.
- Compatibility with PVC. Plasticisers from the vinyl soften an unsuitable adhesive over time. The description should say so explicitly: for PVC, or "plasticiser-resistant".
- Type of base. Wood, metal, non-absorbent surfaces.
- Elasticity after curing. A rigid bond cracks under vibration.
- Open time. How many minutes you have to lay and adjust the material.
The main types of adhesive
| Type | Pros | Cons | When to use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Heat-resistant contact adhesive | grabs at once, bonds on verticals | cannot be shifted, solvent fumes, ordinary grades flow in heat | arches, steps, lining; the floor if you have experience |
| Polyurethane or MS polymer | elastic, unaffected by moisture, also bonds to metal | more expensive, cures more slowly | the whole floor, especially if there is time for curing |
| Two-part reactive for PVC | a professional result | short pot life, needs skill | workshops |
| Dispersion for PVC flooring | odourless, cheap | needs an absorbent layer, weaker in heat | only if the adhesive manufacturer expressly allows plywood and heat |
The key point about contact adhesive: it comes in ordinary and heat-resistant grades. They differ precisely in the temperature at which the bond softens. A vehicle needs the second kind, and that must be stated in the specifications, not on a promotional sticker.
What is not suitable
- Double-sided tape. For mats, not for a floor.
- The self-adhesive layer of household tiles. It lets go in the heat.
- All-purpose grab adhesives. They do not form a continuous layer and leave bumps under the covering.
- An adhesive not tested on a sample. Some solvents deform PVC.
Preparing the base
An adhesive holds only as well as the surface has been prepared.
- Plywood. Dry, sanded, dust-free. Phenolic mesh-faced plywood is keyed with abrasive paper and degreased.
- Metal. It is not advisable to glue the covering straight onto the corrugated body floor: plywood is needed. If you are bonding to flat metal (a step, a threshold), remove rust, degrease and prime if necessary.
- Working temperature. Usually 15–25 °C. In the cold the adhesive does not reach strength; in the heat the open time is halved.
Application
- apply an even, thin coat: with a fine-notched trowel or a roller, as the instructions say;
- contact adhesive goes on both surfaces and is left until touch-dry;
- lay from the middle towards the edges and roll down straight away;
- take special care with the edges and thresholds: lifting always starts at an edge.
Safety
Solvent-based adhesives are dangerous in the enclosed space of a van. Open all the doors, wear a respirator with an organic-vapour filter, and remove sources of flame and sparks, including the parking heater. Ventilate for at least a day after laying.
Test on a sample
Before gluing the floor, bond an offcut of the covering to a piece of the same plywood. A day later, put the sample in the sun behind glass or on the dashboard. If after several hot days the edge has not lifted and no adhesive has oozed out, you can go ahead.
You will have offcuts of vinyl roll flooring for this test left over from cutting in any case.
FAQ
Can I use spray adhesive? Aerosol contact adhesive is handy on arches and verticals. On a floor the coat ends up thin, so use only a heat-resistant grade and test it on a sample.
How much adhesive does a van need? Coverage is given on the data sheet and depends on the type. One small container is usually enough for a van floor, with some left for arches and thresholds.
Can I do without adhesive? A loose sheet ripples in the heat. Full bonding is more reliable.
How do I remove adhesive from the face side? Straight away, before it sets, with whatever the adhesive instructions specify. Solvents such as acetone damage the covering's protective layer.
Read also: how to fit vinyl roll flooring in a van and floor build-up: insulation, plywood, vinyl. For rooms the requirements for adhesive are different: adhesive, primer and skirting for vinyl flooring.
The most common complaint on campervan forums always sounds the same: "the floor came unstuck over the summer". The covering usually gets the blame. Almost always it is the adhesive: it was chosen out of habit from home renovation.
A floor that gives underfoot by the entrance door is familiar to many owners of caravans more than fifteen years old. There are two causes, and each has a different repair. Mixing them up means wasting money.
One thing to understand from the start: a floor covering does not cure a floor. It only covers it. The cause and the base come first, the finish afterwards.
How the floor is built
In most caravans and motorhomes the floor is a sandwich: a top sheet of plywood, foam insulation and a bottom sheet of plywood. The layers are bonded together and work as one rigid panel.
A campervan is built differently: the metal floor of the body with insulation and plywood on top (see the article on floor build-up). It has problems of its own: condensation on the metal, and rust.
Two different problems
Delamination
In time the adhesive between the plywood and the insulation lets go. The top sheet is no longer supported by the foam and starts to flex.
Signs:
- the floor springs but returns to place;
- there is a crunch or a creak when you step on it;
- no smell, the plywood is dry and pale;
- usually in the walkways: by the entrance, by the kitchen.
There is no water here. It is fatigue of the glue line after years of footfall.
Rot from a leak
Water gets into the floor through a window, a roof light, a body seam, a wheel arch or from the plumbing. The plywood gets wet and loses its strength.
Signs:
- the floor gives and does not spring back;
- dark stains, a smell of damp or mould;
- the plywood crumbles or separates when pressed with a screwdriver;
- usually in corners, under windows, by the washroom, along the sides.
How to check
- Heel. Walk the whole floor pressing with your heel. Mark the soft areas with masking tape.
- Moisture meter. A simple pin-type meter for timber is inexpensive. Compare readings on the soft area and on one you know to be dry. A clear difference means water.
- From below. Look under the caravan: dark stains, underbody protection coming away, run marks.
- The source. Check the window and roof-light seals, body seams, arches and water connections.
If there is moisture, the leak is found and fixed first. While water is still getting in, any repair is temporary.
Repairing delamination
The standard method is injection. A grid of holes is drilled in the top sheet of plywood, a special delamination repair compound is injected through them with a syringe, the area is weighted down until it cures, and the holes are closed with plugs or filler.
These repair kits are sold by caravan accessory shops, each with its own instructions on hole spacing and curing time. It is a job an owner can do. Afterwards the floor is covered with new flooring and no trace is left.
Repairing a rotten area
Injection will not help here: there is nothing to bond.
- A small area. The damaged plywood is cut back to sound material, the cavity is dried, the insulation replaced, a new sheet glued in and the joint reinforced.
- A large area or a zone along the side. The floor is tied into the walls and the chassis. This is a job for a workshop that repairs caravans.
Everything must be dry before it is closed up. Moisture sealed inside will carry on working.
Can new flooring hide the problem?
No, and here is why.
- PVC does not let moisture through. Wet plywood under it stops drying from above and rots faster.
- Adhesive does not hold on a damp, crumbly base.
- A soft area will give under new flooring too.
The right order: leak, drying, repair of the base, and only then roll flooring. On a dry, firm floor, a continuous sheet with no seams is already working for you: water spilt inside stays on the surface and does not reach the plywood.
If you are deciding what to put on the camper floor — roll flooring, PVC tiles or laminate —, the comparison is in the article which flooring to choose for a campervan. And do not forget the weight: for campervans with a 3500 kg MMA limit, an extra layer can matter — more in campervan floor weight and the 3500 kg limit.
Winter storage
Most floor problems are picked up not on the road but in storage.
- Ventilation. Leave the ventilation grilles open. A sealed-up caravan collects condensation.
- Moisture absorbers. Put them in and replace them as they fill.
- Water. Drain the tanks, the boiler and the pipework.
- Soft furnishings. Stand mattresses and cushions on edge or take them home.
- Cover. Breathable only. Plastic sheeting or a tarpaulin without ventilation creates a greenhouse.
- Seals. Inspect windows, roof lights and seams before the rainy season.
- Inspection. Go in once a month: the smell of damp is obvious straight away.
- Floor. Do not leave rubber-backed mats on the floor: moisture collects under them, and dark rubber leaves stains on PVC.
When you need a workshop
- the soft zone runs along the side or is in a corner;
- the moisture meter shows damp over a large area;
- you cannot find the source of the water;
- the floor gives near the fixings of furniture or seats.
FAQ
How much does a caravan floor repair cost? It depends on the area and the cause. An owner can inject a small area for the price of a repair kit. Replacing a rotten section in a workshop is priced once it has been opened up.
Can I travel with a soft floor? Minor delamination in the walkway does not affect safety, but it will spread. Rot by the side wall or the seat fixings should be shown to a workshop before you travel.
How do I know the leak is fixed? After repairing the seals, follow the moisture meter readings over several rainy weeks. They should fall.
Should the floor be insulated during the repair? When a section is replaced, the insulation is reinstated at the same thickness. Changing the whole floor construction only makes sense in a full refurbishment.
The same logic applies in buildings: moisture from the base destroys the adhesive under any covering. More in vinyl in a basement: what to do about a damp subfloor.
A floor that gives underfoot by the entrance door is familiar to many owners of caravans more than fifteen years old. There are two causes, and each has a different repair. Mixing them up means wasting money.
In caravans from the eighties and nineties, carpet on the floor was the norm. Thirty years on, it smells of damp, holds sand and will not come clean. Replacing it with vinyl is one of those jobs an owner does alone over a weekend, and it is one of the most frequent questions on Spanish caravan forums.
The work is simple, but there is one fork in the road right at the start: the condition of the floor under the carpet.
First check the floor under the carpet
A caravan floor is usually a sandwich: two layers of plywood with insulation between them. While the carpet is in place, problems are hidden.
Walk the whole floor and press down with your heel by the entrance, by the kitchen, under the windows and in the corners. If the floor springs, sags or crunches, the layers have come apart or the plywood has got wet. In that case the base is repaired first and only then covered. What to do then is covered in the article on soft and damp floors.
If the floor is firm everywhere, you can begin.
What you will need
- a knife with spare blades, a wide scraper, pliers;
- a heat gun or adhesive remover;
- a sander or sanding block, P60–P80 abrasive paper;
- a vacuum cleaner;
- wood filler;
- vinyl roll flooring, adhesive, sealant;
- a threshold profile for the entrance door.
Step 1. Remove the carpet
Cut the carpet into strips 30–40 cm wide and take them up one at a time. It will not come out in one piece: it runs under the furniture.
It will be fixed in one of two ways:
- with staples. It comes up easily, but several hundred staples are left behind. Pull every one out with pliers: a staple driven flush will rust in time and show through as a stain;
- with adhesive. It takes effort to remove, and a layer of glue and pile stays on the plywood.
Under the furniture, cut the carpet along the outline with the knife, tight to the plinth. There is usually no need to remove furniture for the sake of the floor.
Step 2. Remove the adhesive residue
Old adhesive is softened with the heat gun and lifted with the scraper. Where heat does not help, use adhesive remover. Work with the windows and door open: in such a small space solvent fumes build up quickly.
After the scraper, go over the floor with P60–P80 paper. The aim is not to get back to bare plywood but to leave the surface smooth to the touch and not tacky.
Step 3. Stains and smell
There are almost always dark stains on the plywood under the carpet. They are of two kinds.
- Marks from the adhesive and the carpet itself. Dry, odourless, the plywood is hard. This is cosmetic; it will not be seen under the covering.
- Marks from leaks. Dark tide marks with a defined edge, plywood softer than nearby, and a smell. Find the source: a window, a roof light, a body seam. Until the leak is fixed, the new floor must not go down.
Treat surface mould with a fungicide and let the plywood dry. Once the carpet is out, it does the caravan good to stand for a few days with the windows open.
Step 4. Prepare the base
- fill staple holes, sheet joints and gouges with wood filler;
- once dry, sand flush;
- vacuum up the dust;
- if the plywood is very absorbent, apply a primer compatible with your adhesive.
A 2 mm covering follows the relief of the base. Whatever you can feel with your hand will show.
Step 5. Cutting
A caravan body is usually more than two metres wide: 2.1–2.3 m. But the free floor between the furniture is generally narrower, because sofas, kitchen and cupboards run along the sides. So one sheet down the walkway is often enough.
If the free floor is wider than 2 m, the sheets are joined. Place the joint:
- along the caravan, not across the walkway;
- where there is least foot traffic: by the furniture plinth rather than down the middle.
A cardboard or paper template saves material and nerves: caravan furniture gives you a lot of corners and cut-outs.
Step 6. Bonding
The sequence is the same as in a van: fold back half the sheet, apply adhesive, roll out from the middle, roll down, repeat. The steps are set out in detail in the guide to fitting vinyl in a van, and the requirements for the adhesive in the article on adhesive for vans.
Self-adhesive tiles and planks are best avoided in a caravan. Caravans stand in the sun for months, and an adhesive layer designed for room temperature lets go: the tiles shift and the joints open.
Step 7. Edges and junctions
- Furniture plinths. The edge of the covering is trimmed tight and covered with a thin angle trim or run with colour-matched sealant.
- Entrance door threshold. An aluminium profile is essential: this is where all the dirt and water arrive.
- Joint between sheets. Closed with welding cord or cold welding (see the article on seam welding).
- Floor hatches. The lid is covered separately in the same material.
What not to do
- Do not lay vinyl over the carpet. The base is soft, the adhesive will not hold and the damp stays inside.
- Do not cover wet plywood. PVC does not let moisture through, and under it the plywood will rot faster than under carpet.
- Do not leave staples. Every one will show through.
- Do not skimp on ventilation after using remover and adhesive.
FAQ
Can I lay vinyl straight over the old lino? If the old covering is bonded over its whole area, flat and not blistered, technically yes. But you cannot see the state of the plywood under it, so in an old caravan it is better to take it up.
How much material does a caravan need? Measure the free floor between the furniture, length and width. If the width is up to 2 m, one sheet the length of the walkway plus 20 cm is enough.
Will the floor be cold without the carpet? The carpet hardly insulated at all: the warmth is held by the insulation inside the floor sandwich. In winter a rug by the bed helps.
How long does the job take? Usually a weekend: a day for removal and preparation, a day for cutting and bonding. If the floor has to dry out, add a few days.
How to clean the new floor and what to avoid: cleaning and maintaining vinyl flooring.
In caravans from the eighties and nineties, carpet on the floor was the norm. Thirty years on, it smells of damp, holds sand and will not come clean. Replacing it with vinyl is one of those jobs an owner does alone over a weekend, and it is one of the most frequent questions on Spanish caravan forums.
Most campervans in Spain are built on vans with a maximum authorised mass (MMA) of 3,500 kg. That is the ceiling for a category B licence and it must not be exceeded: being overweight means a fine and trouble with your insurer after an accident.
And the margin melts away fast. Furniture, a second battery, water, gas, an awning, bikes. Against all that, the floor looks like a detail. Let's see whether it is.
Where the excess weight comes from
A simplified balance for a 6 m van:
| Item | Mass |
|---|---|
| Empty van | 2,100–2,300 kg |
| Insulation, lining, furniture, bed | 300–450 kg |
| Electrics: batteries, inverter, panels | 60–120 kg |
| Water (100 l), gas, fuel | 180–200 kg |
| Crew, 2–4 people | 150–300 kg |
| Luggage, bikes, crockery, food | 150–250 kg |
At the top of the ranges the total goes over 3,500 kg. The figures are indicative, but the order of magnitude is familiar to anyone who has weighed a finished camper: there is usually not much to spare. That is why every component is counted in a conversion.
What different floor coverings weigh
Take the floor of a Ducato L2: about 6 m².
| Finish | Weight per m² | Over 6 m² |
|---|---|---|
| PVC roll 2 mm | 1.45 kg | 8.7 kg |
| Glue-down vinyl planks 2 mm | about 3.0 kg | 18 kg |
| Click SPC 4–5 mm | 8–9 kg | 48–54 kg |
| Laminate 8 mm with underlay | about 7.5 kg | 45 kg |
The weights for the roll and the glue-down planks come from the specifications of our materials; the other values are typical for the market.
The difference between the lightest and the heaviest option: about 45 kg. That is 45 litres of water, a second battery or two bikes on a rack.
The base weighs more than the covering
The finish is only part of the floor. Under it lies plywood, and weight can be saved there too.
| Base | Weight per m² | Over 6 m² |
|---|---|---|
| Birch plywood 12 mm | about 8.2 kg | 49 kg |
| Birch plywood 9 mm | about 6.1 kg | 37 kg |
| Poplar plywood 12 mm | about 5.4 kg | 32 kg |
Poplar plywood is a third lighter than birch. Its strength is usually enough for a campervan floor if the sheet is fully supported. Which thickness to choose and how to build up the layers is covered in the article on floor build-up.
Two complete floors compared
| Option | Build-up | Weight over 6 m² |
|---|---|---|
| Heavy | birch plywood 12 mm + laminate with underlay | about 94 kg |
| Light | poplar plywood 12 mm + PVC roll 2 mm | about 41 kg |
The difference: 53 kg in the floor alone, and the light option is also 8 mm lower.
Weight and paperwork
When a conversion is registered, the vehicle's mass is checked, and it determines how many seats and how much load remain within the MMA. The registration rules and ITV intervals for campervans are set out in the article on the ITV for campervans. The figures for your project are calculated by the engineer who prepares the modification project.
Where else to lose weight
- Furniture. Poplar plywood 12–15 mm instead of birch or chipboard.
- Water. Travel with the tank part-full and top up on arrival.
- Batteries. One lithium battery is noticeably lighter than two lead-acid ones of the same capacity.
- Lining. Solid-wood cladding is heavier than thin plywood with fabric.
- Floor. Vinyl roll flooring instead of floating floors.
Weigh the van on a weighbridge before you start and after every major stage. That removes the main risk: finding out you are overweight when everything is already built.
FAQ
How much does a whole roll weigh? A 2 × 30 m roll (60 m²) weighs 87 kg. A cut for a van: between 9 and 15 kg.
Does the adhesive add weight? Yes, but not much: a couple of kilos for a van floor.
Is it worth saving 40–50 kg? In a 3,500 kg camper, yes. The margin after conversion is small and 50 kg is a noticeable part of it.
Won't a thin floor dent? The plywood carries the load, not the covering. The job of the finish is to protect the plywood from water and wear, and 2 mm is enough for that.
If you would like a wood-effect floor, look at glue-down vinyl planks: they are heavier than the roll but about three times lighter than click floors. A comparison of all the options for water, seams and heat: which floor to choose for a campervan.
Most campervans in Spain are built on vans with a maximum authorised mass (MMA) of 3,500 kg. That is the ceiling for a category B licence and it must not be exceeded: being overweight means a fine and trouble with your insurer after an accident.
With a roll 2 m wide, the calculation for a van is simple: the interior width of every production model is under two metres, so the sheet goes down in one piece with no seams. You only need to work out the length.
The formula
Linear metres = length of the load area + 0.2 m spare, rounded up to a whole metre.
One linear metre at 2 m wide gives 2 m² of flooring. At €12.99/m² including VAT, a linear metre costs €25.98.
The 20 cm spare is for trimming in place: the cab bulkhead and the rear threshold are rarely exactly square to the sides.
Table for popular base vehicles
The load length is measured along the floor from the cab bulkhead to the rear doors.
| Model | Load length | Width at floor | Needed, linear m | Area | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fiat Ducato / Peugeot Boxer / Citroën Jumper L1 | 2.67 m | 1.87 m | 3 | 6 m² | €77.94 |
| Ducato / Boxer / Jumper L2 | 3.12 m | 1.87 m | 4 | 8 m² | €103.92 |
| Ducato / Boxer / Jumper L3 | 3.71 m | 1.87 m | 4 | 8 m² | €103.92 |
| Ducato / Boxer / Jumper L4 | 4.07 m | 1.87 m | 5 | 10 m² | €129.90 |
| Mercedes Sprinter Compact | 2.60 m | 1.78 m | 3 | 6 m² | €77.94 |
| Sprinter Medium | 3.27 m | 1.78 m | 4 | 8 m² | €103.92 |
| Sprinter Long | 4.31 m | 1.78 m | 5 | 10 m² | €129.90 |
| Sprinter Extra Long | 4.71 m | 1.78 m | 5 | 10 m² | €129.90 |
| VW Crafter / MAN TGE, medium wheelbase | 3.45 m | 1.83 m | 4 | 8 m² | €103.92 |
| Crafter / TGE, long wheelbase | 4.30 m | 1.83 m | 5 | 10 m² | €129.90 |
| Ford Transit L2 | 3.04 m | 1.78 m | 4 | 8 m² | €103.92 |
| Ford Transit L3 | 3.49 m | 1.78 m | 4 | 8 m² | €103.92 |
| Renault Master L2 | 3.08 m | 1.77 m | 4 | 8 m² | €103.92 |
| Renault Master L3 | 3.73 m | 1.77 m | 4 | 8 m² | €103.92 |
| VW Transporter, short wheelbase | 2.57 m | 1.70 m | 3 | 6 m² | €77.94 |
| VW Transporter, long wheelbase | 2.97 m | 1.70 m | 4 | 8 m² | €103.92 |
| Renault Trafic / Opel Vivaro L1 | 2.54 m | 1.66 m | 3 | 6 m² | €77.94 |
| Renault Trafic / Opel Vivaro L2 | 2.94 m | 1.66 m | 4 | 8 m² | €103.92 |
| Ford Transit Custom L1 | 2.55 m | 1.78 m | 3 | 6 m² | €77.94 |
| Ford Transit Custom L2 | 2.92 m | 1.78 m | 4 | 8 m² | €103.92 |
The dimensions are for reference and rounded. They change from one generation to the next, and in vehicles with a factory bulkhead, lining or a second row of seats they differ from the catalogue figures. Always measure your own van before ordering.
Minimum cut. Check when ordering: write or call and we will tell you what cut length is available for your model.
How to measure your van
- Length. Along the floor, on the centre line, from the bulkhead or the backs of the front seats to the rear door seal.
- Length along the side. Separately along the left and right sides: because of the shape of the bulkhead it can be longer than on the centre line.
- Width. At the widest point of the floor, usually just behind the sliding door.
- Step. If you want to cover the side-door step in the same material, measure it separately.
Use the longest of the lengths in the formula.
Wheel arches: do they count?
No. The arches narrow the floor, but the sheet is still bought at full width and trimmed around them. They do not affect how much you need; they only produce offcuts.
What the leftover covers
After trimming the width you are left with a strip 10–30 cm wide along the whole length, and after rounding the length up, a piece across the full width too. That is enough for:
- the side-door step;
- the cab floor between the seats;
- the bottom of the garage space under the bed;
- shelves and cupboard bases where jerrycans and shoes go;
- a repair kit in case of a burn or a cut.
The shade can vary slightly between batches, so it is best to keep a spare piece from the same roll.
When one sheet is not enough
A seam appears if the floor is wider than two metres. That means:
- a caravan or motorhome with a body 2.1–2.3 m wide;
- a trailer;
- a box van on a chassis.
In that case you work out two sheets, lengthways or across the body, whichever wastes less. The joint is closed with welding cord or cold welding. For these cases, send us the floor dimensions and we will work out a layout with minimal waste.
FAQ
Is 2 metres of width enough for a Ducato? Yes. The floor is about 1.87 m wide, which leaves spare for trimming along the sides.
Should I count the cab? The cab is not included in the table. It is usually covered with the leftover, or the factory mat is left in place.
How much does the floor of a Ducato L2 weigh? About 6 m² net at 1.45 kg/m²: under 9 kg. A detailed weight calculation is in the article on campervan floor weight.
What if my van is not in the table? Measure the load length along the floor, add 0.2 m and round up to a whole metre.
What next: which floor to choose for a campervan and how to fit vinyl roll flooring in a van. For rooms and commercial premises the quantity is worked out differently: see how to calculate vinyl flooring quantity.
With a roll 2 m wide, the calculation for a van is simple: the interior width of every production model is under two metres, so the sheet goes down in one piece with no seams. You only need to work out the length.
A van floor can be laid in half a day if the base is ready. The main difference from a room: there is not a single right angle. Wheel arches, the side-door step, stiffening ribs, rounded pillars. So the job starts not with the knife but with a template.
What you will need
Tools:
- a knife with trapezoid and hooked blades, plus spare blades;
- cardboard or heavy paper for the template, masking tape;
- a 1 m metal rule, a square, a marker;
- a notched trowel or a roller, depending on the adhesive;
- a hand pressure roller or a smooth board wrapped in cloth;
- a vacuum cleaner.
Materials:
- vinyl roll flooring 2 m wide, the length of the load area plus 20 cm spare;
- an adhesive rated for the heat inside a vehicle (how to choose one: see the article on adhesive for vans);
- aluminium profile for the door thresholds;
- polyurethane or MS sealant for the perimeter.
Step 1. The base
Vinyl must not be glued straight onto the corrugated metal of the body: the ribs will show through and there will be voids under the covering. The base is made of 9–12 mm plywood. How to build it together with the insulation is covered in the article on floor build-up.
Requirements for the plywood before laying:
- the sheets are fixed and do not flex underfoot;
- the joints between sheets are level, with no steps;
- screw heads are countersunk and filled;
- joints and dents are filled with wood filler and sanded;
- the surface is dry, free of oil and dust.
A two-millimetre covering hides nothing. Whatever you can feel with your palm on the plywood will be visible on the floor.
Step 2. The template
You need a template in two cases: if fixed elements are already installed, or if you do not want to cut the material in place.
- Lay cardboard or paper on the floor and tape the sheets into one piece.
- Trace the whole outline: arches, step, pillars. Stop 5–10 mm short of the walls, then transfer the exact outline using an offcut of batten of constant width.
- Mark front, back and face side on the template.
If you cut the plywood base yourself, you already have a template: the plywood sheets themselves before they are installed. Trace them onto the vinyl.
Step 3. Acclimatisation
Unroll the material face up on a flat surface and leave it for a day at 18–25 °C. PVC keeps the curve of the roll, and in the cold it becomes stiff and harder to cut. In winter, unroll it in a warm room, not in the garage.
Step 4. Cutting
Place the template on the vinyl face up, tape it down and trace it. Cut with 2–3 cm spare all round: the final trim is easier to do in place.
Watch the relief pattern: the rows of studs or checker plate should run parallel to the axis of the van, otherwise the floor will look skewed.
Step 5. Dry fit
Bring the sheet into the van and lay it out without adhesive. Check that it lies flat at the arches and the step. Make short relief cuts at the corners of the arches so the material sits without creasing. Trim the excess, leaving 1–2 mm to the walls: that gap will disappear under the sealant and the lining.
Step 6. Bonding
Work in halves:
- Fold one half of the sheet back over the other.
- Apply adhesive to the exposed plywood following the manufacturer's instructions. Contact adhesive is applied to both surfaces and left until touch-dry.
- Roll the sheet back from the middle towards the edge, pushing the air out.
- Roll it down from the centre towards the walls.
- Repeat with the second half.
Contact adhesive grabs instantly and does not let you shift the material. If you have no experience, choose an adhesive with open time that lets you adjust the position.
Step 7. Thresholds, arches, perimeter
- Side and rear door thresholds. The edge of the covering is finished with a screwed-down aluminium profile. This is where shoes and cargo put the most load; without a profile the edge will lift.
- Wheel arches. The covering is trimmed tight to the arch. The arch itself is usually lined separately.
- Perimeter. The joint between floor and wall is run with sealant. Water from the floor must not get under the plywood.
Step 8. Curing
Install the furniture once the adhesive has reached strength: the time is given in the instructions, usually 24–48 hours. For the first day, keep the doors or windows ajar so the adhesive fumes can escape. Wait three days before wet cleaning.
Five mistakes
- An adhesive not rated for heat. After one summer the covering will blister.
- Laying on metal with no plywood. The body ribs show through within a month.
- Cutting cold material. Once it warms up, the sheet will sit differently.
- No profile on the threshold. The edge tears off with the first load.
- Furniture installed before the floor. The floor has to be pieced together with seams.
We do not carry out installation. We sell the material by the roll or cut by the linear metre; you can see the colours and relief in our Valencia showroom.
FAQ
Can I lay vinyl without adhesive, just held down by the furniture? On a small area people do, but in the heat a loose sheet ripples in the walkway. Full bonding is more reliable.
Can I glue onto the factory plywood floor of a cargo van? Yes, if the plywood is dry and flat. A phenolic mesh surface needs sanding and degreasing, otherwise the adhesive will not key.
Do the seams need welding? In a van up to 2 m wide there are no seams. If the sheet does have to be joined, for example in a trailer 2.3 m wide, the joint is closed with welding cord or cold welding (see the article on seam welding).
How long does fitting take? On a prepared base: 3–5 hours including the template. With the plywood and insulation as well, allow a weekend.
Before you buy, work out how many metres your van model needs. If you are laying the floor in a room rather than a vehicle, the general guide to installing vinyl flooring will help.
A van floor can be laid in half a day if the base is ready. The main difference from a room: there is not a single right angle. Wheel arches, the side-door step, stiffening ribs, rounded pillars. So the job starts not with the knife but with a template.
A van floor lives a very different life from a floor in a flat. Parked up in summer, the interior goes above 60 °C; at night condensation forms on the metal; sand comes back from the beach, and the body vibrates all the way down the road. On top of that, a campervan has two hard limits a home does not: weight and headroom.
That is why a floor that works perfectly in a living room can buckle in a van within a single summer. Let's go through the options by the parameters that actually matter in a vehicle.
What a campervan floor has to do
- Low weight. Every kilo of fit-out comes off the payload.
- Low thickness. In a van with 1.90 m of headroom, an extra centimetre of floor is noticeable.
- Indifference to water. Wet shoes, the dog, a spilt kettle, condensation.
- Stability in heat. The material must not change size between +5 and +60 °C.
- As few seams as possible. Sand packs into every seam and water runs into it.
- Easy cleaning. A brush and a damp cloth, no special chemicals.
Comparison by key parameters
| Parameter | PVC roll 2 mm | Glue-down planks 2 mm | Click SPC 4–5 mm | Laminate 8 mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Weight per m² | 1.45 kg | about 3 kg | 8–9 kg | about 7 kg plus underlay |
| Thickness | 2 mm | 2 mm | 4–5 mm plus underlay | 8 mm plus underlay |
| Seams | none: the 2 m sheet is wider than the interior | around every plank | click joints around every plank | click joints around every plank |
| Water | does not absorb, no seams | does not absorb, joints stay open | the board is unaffected, but water gets under the joints | the edge swells irreversibly |
| Heat and temperature swings | glued down, holds its size | glued down, holds its size | floating: expands and can lift | the same, and it also reacts to humidity |
| Look | technical relief | wood effect | wood or stone effect | wood effect |
The figures for the roll and the glue-down planks come from the specifications of our own materials; those for SPC and laminate are typical market values.
PVC roll: one piece for the whole floor
Vinyl roll flooring 2 m wide covers the floor of any production van in a single sheet: the interior width of a Ducato, Sprinter or Crafter is under two metres. There are no seams at all, so sand and water have nowhere to go except onto the cloth.
Strengths:
- the lightest option: the floor of a Ducato L2, about 6 m², weighs under 9 kg;
- 2 mm of thickness takes nothing off the headroom;
- it is glued to the plywood base over the whole area and does not move in the heat;
- the relief gives grip under wet shoes;
- it cleans with ordinary household products.
Weaknesses:
- the look is technical: stud or checker-plate relief in plain colours. It is not a wood imitation;
- it needs a smooth base: 2 mm will show every screw and every step between plywood sheets;
- it has to be bonded with an adhesive that withstands heat (details in the article on adhesive for vans).
PVC roll has long been used in minibuses and commercial vehicles for the same reasons: weight, water and cleaning.
Glue-down wood-effect planks
If you want the interior to look like a home rather than a workshop, the second option is glue-down vinyl planks. The same 2 mm of thickness, about 3 kg per square metre and a realistic wood pattern.
There is one price to pay for the look: seams. There are a lot of them, sand gets in, and with a weak adhesive the planks can open up slightly in the heat. The requirements for the adhesive and the base are the same as for the roll.
Self-adhesive planks and tiles from DIY stores are not worth buying. Their adhesive layer is designed for room temperature, and on campervan forums this is one of the most common reasons for redoing a floor.
Click SPC and laminate
Both are floating floors: they lie on an underlay and are held together by click joints. In a flat that is convenient; in a vehicle it creates three problems.
- Thermal expansion. In a locked van in the sun, the floor heats up by 40–50 degrees compared with the morning. A floating floor needs a gap around the perimeter, but in a van it gets pinned down by furniture. The result: the joints open up or the floor lifts.
- Weight. 8–9 kg per metre against 1.45. Over six metres of floor that is a difference of about 45 kg, comparable to two days' supply of water.
- Water under the joints. The SPC board itself is not afraid of water, but moisture that gets into a joint stays between the floor and the plywood. Laminate swells as well.
Laminate in a campervan can be regarded as a temporary solution. SPC is acceptable if you leave the gaps and do not clamp the floor with furniture, but it is simpler to choose a glued material.
For the full comparison between glue-down vinyl and click SPC in a regular home, see this article: glue-down LVT or click SPC.
Coated plywood with no finish
Phenolic-faced plywood with a mesh surface (tablero fenólico antideslizante) is often used as the base. Some people leave it as the finished floor.
For a cargo van that is fine. For a living space there are drawbacks: the mesh texture holds dirt, the edges and fixing holes have to be sealed, and it is unpleasant to walk on barefoot. Usually the plywood is covered after all: 2 mm of vinyl adds a kilo and a half per metre and solves all three issues.
What to choose
| Use | Solution |
|---|---|
| A practical camper for the beach, bikes and the dog | PVC roll, one sheet |
| A "like home" interior, careful use | glue-down wood-effect planks |
| A cargo van that sometimes carries a mattress | plywood plus PVC roll |
| An old caravan with carpet | PVC roll (see how to replace caravan carpet) |
| Minimal budget, lifespan does not matter | any offcut, but not laminate |
Next steps: how many metres to buy for your model, how to fit it and which relief to choose.
A similar choice — laminate or vinyl — but for a regular home, is covered separately: laminate vs vinyl flooring.
FAQ
Can I put ordinary DIY-store lino in a campervan? You can, but household cushioned vinyl is soft: furniture legs and boxes leave dents, and its wear layer is 0.1–0.2 mm. A commercial floor with a 0.3 mm wear layer lasts noticeably longer.
Do I need an underlay under vinyl in a van? No. Glue-down vinyl goes straight onto the plywood. The insulation sits lower, under the plywood.
Does the floor go in before or after the furniture? Before. One sheet across the whole floor, with the furniture fixed on top through the covering. That way there are no gaps under the units for water to run into.
Will the floor be cold? The floor temperature depends on the insulation under the plywood, not on the covering. Vinyl itself feels warmer to the touch than metal or tiles.
What colour of floor works best in a campervan? Mid greys and beiges show sand and dust the least. On black every grain is visible; on a very light floor, shoe marks.
For how many kilos each type of floor takes off your payload, see the article on floor weight and the MMA limit.
A van floor lives a very different life from a floor in a flat. Parked up in summer, the interior goes above 60 °C; at night condensation forms on the metal; sand comes back from the beach, and the body vibrates all the way down the road. On top of that, a campervan has two hard limits a home does not: weight and headroom.